Low-alcohol wine is not wine, it’s grape juice. Where’s the joy in that? | Fiona Beckett

Supermarkets are reporting booming sales. But you don’t have to get drunk to enjoy the taste and the redolence of the real thing

• Fiona Beckett is the Guardian’s wine writer

There’s nothing more dispiriting than the three words “low-alcohol wine”, with the possible exception of “low-fat cheese”. They usually denote a sickly-sweet concoction with little resemblance to anything you would normally drink.

Yet sales are booming, according to Tesco and Marks & Spencer, which are both releasing new products to meet the demand. (Mind you, they’ve been saying that for the past 10 years – usually around this time of year, as dry January heaves into view.)

Continue reading...