How to cook perfect battered fish

Being of the view that the star of the chip shop show is the crispy coating and not the fish, Felicity Cloake addresses the matter of a better batter to flatter the latterAs I've admitted before in this column, I didn't taste fish and chips proper (by which I mean not involving the word fingers) until tragically late in life, in part because of a shameful childish antipathy towards things with fins, but mostly because I'm embarrassingly middle class (coq au vin, yes. Fried stuff, no.) On my first foray into the glorious fatty fug of the chippie, I ordered what was described as a fishcake, expecting the usual apologetic puck of potato. What appeared, after the mysterious plate of bread and butter and the obligatory pot of tea, was a petrified seamonster the size of a curling stone and standing, self-supporting, on legs of solid batter. Cracking its golden shell was an epiphany of the very sweetest kind. Continue...